Since Cuban President Raul Castro permitted a number of categories for self-employment (Cuesta propistas) in 2011, some 500,000 people are estimated to now run their own businesses in Cuba. Most popular are taxis, paladares (restaurants) and casas particulates (like B&Bs), although bakeries, digital print shops, beauty salons and spas, etc. are sprouting in neighborhoods around the city, often based in a home or garage.
When it comes to the “new restauranteurs,” some places are more basic than imaginable – a single blender or juicer offering for a few pesos Cubanos whatever fruit juice is in season from a card table at the front door. In August, that’s mango and pineapple; it’s not yet orange season. Others are surprising and extravagant renovations of fabulous, previously crumbling, early-20th century mansions, with menus and service that would delight in any city in the world, and prices to match. Such is the case of Los Naranjos.
This large residence, two doors from the broad tree-lined avenue of Paseo, in then-wealthy and burgeoning El Vedado, was built in 1930 with marble columns and stairways, intricately-carved pilasters and plinths, exquisite floor tiles, crystal chandeliers, and the finest furniture of the period, all imported from Europe. The family stayed after the Revolution and, like those who chose to stay – either believing in the possibilities of the youthful idealists or a quick overthrown and reversal to previous times – were left with a house and it’s furnishings and no funds or materials by which to maintain it.
Forty-five years later, Alexis, one of the heirs, left his parents in the decrepit house as he went to Spain. Working in boutique hotel, he learned management and service and saved his money to return, with impeccable taste and standards, to revitalize the entire second floor, beyond its original glory, and open Restaurante Los Naranjos.
Modern and classic fuse in the dining rooms and patio, with white tablecloths and a broad menu of international cuisine, such as Caprice and Caesar salads, innovative soups, fish Termador, curried chicken, a full bar, and impeccable service by a bilingual staff. With a starter, main and a drink, figure $30 per person. With one of the chef’s specials, a bottle of wine and dessert, you may be set back $50 per person. The Thursday night I took my friend for a belated birthday dinner, there were about 20 other dinner, a live 4-piece band, a couple demonstrating “casino,” a Cuban dance form and then inviting guests to join them in an elementary dance class.
I asked owner Alexis how the restaurant was doing. “Very well, but not as good as six months ago. We were number one on Trip Advisor, thanks to all the great reviews we’d received. Then we had a family of nine from Atlanta. Each posted a rave review the same day and TripAdvisor assumed we were manipulating the system, which we were not but there was no process for explaining. So they punished us by moving to the bottom of the list of Havana restaurants. We’ve been climbing up again ever since.” Resigned, he added, “It is what it is, and soon we’ll be back at the top.”
Despite what I consider absurd prices in this country, gauging tourists, if the other top-rated paladares are as good as Los Naranjos, Havana can reasonably claim “world-class” restaurants for the first time in almost 60 years.
Los Naranjos is located on 17th near Paseo, El Vedado.
another winning post. you take us right there with you. and we feel the same way about price gouging……
Judie, There are two worlds here, as in most countries where locals cannot access or afford most basics, including food… And having Cuban friends makes a huge difference. E.g., I sat down at a restaurant with a Cubana friend and the waiter brought us menus in CUC (the business and tourist currency, roughly pegged to the U.S. Dollar), with a chicken and rice plate at $7. She talked with the waiter who returned with a local’s menu in CUPs (Cuban Pesos, in which people are paid, 24 of these to one CUC) and the price of chicken plate was the equivalent of $2. Big difference. Such is the Black Market world. Thanks for reading and commenting!
Love it Aysh! Both of these posts are wonderful. And the pics are great too. Keep posting, I love seeing Cuba through your eyes. xo
Loving the photos and update on your adventures. I’ve posted this to my FB page. Sending love to you!
Thanks so much for sharing my blog!!
Thank you, Jan! Every day is a different adventure for sure. I’m trying to remember to take a photo of everyone with whom I come in contact, but often it’s so engaging, I forget. Onward!