Posts tagged European travel

Vatican Museum

 

Vatican Museum entry sculpture
Sculpture above the entry to the Vatican Museum; although a new, slick pavilion to the north has been added for processing the hoards of visitors.

It’s too big and too crowded… and you must go. Of course, this is The Vatican, the seat of the predominant religion and government of the western world for centuries, Michelangelo’s dome of St. Peter’s Basilica dominates the skyline and, well, it houses some of the greatest art ever created.

St. Peters domeby Michelangelo
St. Peters dome designed by Michelangelo, taking clues from the Pantheon built 1,500 years before.

To skip the lines that wind for at least half a mile around the massive western and northern walls (and this is in mid-March… imagine summer!), your best bet is to sign up for a small tour. With some 5,000 official guides registered with the Vatican Museums, we felt fortunate to have randomly chosen Christiana Tittarelli, a charming Italian art historian with a good command of English and years of experience. Her insightful narrative was transmitted into our earbuds wirelessly, so even when slightly separated from the group of seven, we could hear her clearly.

Vatican Museum entry
We were told 20,000 people a day visit the Vatican Museum. Book a tour in advance!

Once fitted with headphones and tickets, the tour begins in the lemon garden and winds through room after room of magnificent architecture and art – collected, donated or stolen – to its end in the Sistine Chapel, where photos are not allowed and “Silencio!” is repeated to the crowd who cannot help whispering and talking about what they’re noticing in the 12 wall frescoes (by Botticelli, Ghirlandalo, etc., including Michelangelo’s creepy “Last Judgment”) and the 33 ceiling panels.

Even three exhausting hours of moving through the galleries (with throngs of others) does not begin to scratch the surface of the buildings and treasures of Vatican City.

Classical sculptures in Vatican Museum
Classical sculptures informed much of later work, specifically the Renaissance masters.

This ancient Greek torso is said to be Michelangelo’s inspiration for God’s body as he reaches out to Adam in the Sistine Chapel’s center ceiling panel. God also has his entourage and arm around a young girl, while Adam reclines seemingly indifferent to God’s extended reach.

God's torso

Gold and more gold, this in the ceiling of the Gallery of the Candelabras… I think, but there were so many rooms, so much to take in.
Vatican gold ceiling, gallery of candelabras

And then there was a long hall of enormous and stunning tapestries.

Vatican tapestry of the resurrection
A small segment of a tapestry I estimate to be 10 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Notice the almost whimsical presentation by the angel; a “ta-dah! He is risen!” and the bewildered look on the face of Christ.

There were the Rafael rooms, with his prolific big-scale paintings of life as he imagined it in the time of Christ; himself only living to age 39. The story goes that his funeral was attended by more women than men and most were presumed to have known him in the “Biblical sense.” We passed through the Borges’ opulent apartment; a pope so depraved that no future pope would inhabit his chambers. And finally, (although I am skipping many amazing bits), an area of  a modern art collection that was started in the 1990s and seems like filler for empty rooms before heading through passageways to the grand finale of the Sistine Chapel.

The tour ended at St. Peter’s Square. The Basilica, open to the public, proved too much for aching feet and minds reeling with art and history overload, so I peeked inside and vowed, “Another day.”

St Peters square
St Peters square. The size and scale is unfathomable… even in person it’s difficult to take it in.

First Days in Rome

Piazza Venezia, Rome
Piazza Venezia in the heart of Rome

From our apartment on Viale di Trastevere, the Number 8 tram (across the street) takes us to its end at Piazza Venezia in just 10 minutes, and we are in the heart of the Centro Historico.

The tram and bus systems are easy, especially with Google Maps (you can download an offline version to use if you don’t get a local Sim Card or use roaming). SEE BELOW FOR PHONE AND TRANSPORT CARD INFO.

While any guide book (like Rick Steves’ Rome and Lonely Planet Rome) gives detailed information, history and significance of each site, I am after the feeling, and am frequently overwhelmed.

A short walk and we come upon Chiesa di Gesú, the first Jesuit church to be built in Rome. The outside is plain but the inside a Baroque spectacle. Besides all the gold adornments, statuary, and paintings of heaven, hell, saints and such, the soaring ceiling is a complex masterpiece of trompe l’oeil… 3-D at its best, (and earliest… remember, perspective had only recently been discovered in the early Renaissance with the use of mirrors) convincing the viewer (er, faithful adherent) that you’re looking deeply into a vibrantly real scenes.

Chiesa del Gesú
Chiesa del Gesú – panel of America. Each of the continents are depicted. Note the indigenous regal woman killing what looks to be a bear.
part of ceiling of Gesú Church in mirror
part of ceiling of Gesú Church as seen in a long mirror.

Then came the Pantheon, considered the most influential building in art history. From the back, it’s a big, round rough-brick exterior, but from the front, with its Greek-style portico, it is magnificent.

Pantheon from Piazza della Rotonda, continuously a gathering place for 2,000 years.
The Pantheon from Piazza della Rotonda, continuously a gathering place for 2,000 years.

As I walked beneath the portico (dating from Emperor Hadian, 120 A.D.) to enter the main temple, I was stopped… not by the crowds or surprisingly few security guards, but by a sense of its magnificence. A visceral “wow!” I stood at the doorway for a minute or more, unable to move, just sensing the age, perfect symmetry and extraordinary connection through time and space to the countless millions of famous and “regular” lives that had also stood in this awesome place.

Piazza Navona, Bernini, Baroque style.
Piazza Navona was once the site of a vast stadium and racetrack, now surrounded by Baroque buildings. The fountain (Fontana del Moro) was remodeled in 1653 by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, credited with creating the Baroque style.

Amid the crowds of tourists, busy Romans, the vast cadre of unemployed youth (I’m told there is a 40% unemployment rate) hanging out in the piazzas, especially in the evenings, I can still find for myself a sense of connection to the past that is both extraordinarily familiar and wildly unexpected. Ahh, Rome!

More soon, and please leave your comments and share this blog. Thanks!

Notes on Telephone and Transport

I went to the Vodaphone office and bought a Sim card and 4 months of service for 40€. I can’t say exactly how many calls and data it includes but I was assured it would be sufficient. WhatsApp (text messaging and audio calls) remains my Mexico cell phone number (essentially an ID) and is the way most popular means of communication all over Europe, as it is free. So, if you are traveling in Europe and have a smart phone, you should setup (and understand) WhatsApp beforehand. If you have a carrier contract, you can likely add on an international roaming package but be sure you understand the costs.

I bought a monthly pass (38€), based on the calendar month, at a Tobacco shop. It includes trams, buses and metro. However, due to the lack of government – I mean, really, Italians consider themselves without an official government at the moment – no one is enforcing using a ticket or pass on the trams or buses. I’m told you need one for the Metro, but individual tickets can be purchased for 1€ on site. With trams being so easy and fast, I’ve not yet figured out the buses or Metro, but Google map directions are invaluable in getting from point A to B. 

 

How to Stay in Europe

how to get a French visa and live in EuropeThe Saga of Acquiring a French long-stay Visa

“There must be a way to stay in Europe!” I thought after arriving in Madrid in May 2014, determined to pursue a long-time dream of living somewhere in southern Europe. After countless hours of online research and talking with immigration attorneys, bankers and small business consultants, I am happy to tell you what I discovered.

This long post is of specific interest to U.S. citizens who would love to live in Europe, and does not apply to many of my readers. Please share with friends to whom it applies, leave comments and help me promote it via your social media channels. Thanks! I will be posting more travel and author-related articles in the near future, so if you have not yet subscribed for email alerts I encourage you to do it now and also join me on Facebook and Twitter.

First, let me clarify a few basics so there are no misunderstandings. If you are a U.S. and Canadian tourist planning to visit Europe for less than 3 months you do NOT need to apply for a visa, as it is automatically granted upon arrival. (I have not research regulations regarding other nationalities).

This law governs all non-EU citizens

Every country in Europe, even those not officially in the European Union like Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein – with the exception of the UK and Ireland – has signed the Schengen Agreement. This allows open borders across Europe for all EU nationals, and a limit of 90 days (out of 180 days) for all non-EU citizens. Once you arrive in the EU, the clock starts ticking and you have 90 days. Even if you leave and return, your 90 days started upon first arrival and when they are up, you must then be out of the EU for at least 90 days before returning. The UK  typically grants a 6-month tourist visa if you have health insurance (I recommend WorldNomads), “sufficient funds,” agree not to seek employment, and seem legitimate.

Anecdotally, I’ve heard of tourist-visa holders slightly overstaying their 3 months and leaving without incident from Spain or Italy (which seem more lenient in enforcement than other nations), while other tourists being reprimanded, fined and even barred from returning to the EU for up to 10 years.

I’ve also read of a loophole to avoid having one’s passport stamped altogether: taking the Eurostar from London to Paris where there has been no immigration at Gare du Nord railway station. But then, how does one prove when they arrived? We live in a highly-controlled and computerized world where everyone is trackable, so why risk fine or being a persona non grata?

Special Programs for Freelancers

The only information I found that might permit staying on in the EU, after having arrived on a tourist visa, are special programs for freelancers in Berlin Germany and for self-employed in The Netherlands under the Dutch-American Friendship Treaty. You must be there, show a year’s lease, open a bank account and deposit several thousand euros as a sort of bond, prove you are self-supporting, buy their health insurance, and a pension plan if over 45, and be committed to living there. If this works for you, it may be worth pursuing. However, as in with all information herein, laws change continually so do your research. Hiring a facilitator or attorney specializing in these programs is recommended.

Actually Getting a Visa

So, if you are a non-EU passport holders, how can you get a visa to stay beyond 90 days in the EU?

If you are fortunate enough to have proof a parent or grandparent born in Europe, you may qualify for residency  or citizenship in that country. In any case, you must apply for in your country of origin and/or residence.

If you have a large sum of money to invest, you can buy your way into residency in some countries. Spain, for example, offers residency if you purchase a home for 500,000 or more euros.

You can marry an EU citizen although, as in the U.S., marriage does not necessarily grant immediate residency and proof of the relationship’s authenticity may be required. Spain, I’m told, is the most lenient regarding this.

Other than these exceptions, no matter which EU country you choose – the regulations for each vary widely and I can speak only to my experience with Spain and France – there will be a lot of qualifications you must meet, paperwork to gather, bureaucratic hoops through which to jump, long-distance trips to your Consulate office (unless you happen to live in the same city as the consulate), money to be paid whether or not your receive a visa, and time to wait for an answer. Every nation’s visa rules and process can be found via an online search. Some country’s requirements are easier to fulfill than others.

Spanish Visa

As a resident of New Mexico, applying for a Spanish visa would have required two trips to Houston to the Spanish Consulate for my region; the first appointment to drop-off all the paperwork and the second to pick it up. I could apply for a 6 or 12-month visa as an au pair, culture and language assistant, student, unpaid intern, for religious activities or residency. Each option requires elaborate proofs. For example, as a student, you must prove that you’ve paid the institution in advance for the entire time, say a year. You cannot receive a refund should you decide not to attend and the school is bound to report you to the consulate, which would likely revoke your extended visa.

The Spanish consulate’s website also cites a four-month wait time. When I considered the cost of the two trips, the wait time, and the complications of their visa requirements, I gave up, thinking I’d either 1. Continue doing the 3 months in/3 months out, 2. Stay illegally and risk consequences, or 3. Find a Spaniard to marry (actually, the easiest way to get Spanish residency)… but then the matter of finding one is easier said than done! Seriously, marriage is a legal contract and there are many sad stories of Americans marrying for convenience only to be find themselves in mucky and financially devastating relationship with someone they could not trust.

My Story

After my three months traveling in Spain and France were up, from May 1 to Aug. 3, 2014 (yes, I overstayed by 2 days no problem), I left the EU with the intention of passing my 3-month “exile” in England. As the UK is far more expensive than where I’d been, I lined up housesitting positions and laid low. After 2 months, I decided to return to Santa Fe, New Mexico, where I’d maintained residency, and try and procure a visa to Spain. I purchased a round-trip ticket from London to Albuquerque with an arbitrary 6-month return date, knowing it could be changed for a fee. Airfares are generally cheaper from Europe to the U.S. than from the U.S. to Europe.

As described above, I was daunted by the Spanish Consulate requirements and gave up. In February 2015, I stumbled upon a blog post that mentioned a French Long-Stay visa and immediately went to the French Consulate website for Los Angeles, the regional office for the southwest U.S.

The requirements for a one-year “Long-Stay” visa were more straightforward for me – proof of sufficient funds – liquid, not investments or assets (no one can say what qualifies as ” sufficient funds”), statement that I would not work in France, a local police report showing I had no criminal record, proof of health insurance for the entire year (again, via World Nomads), proof of residency in New Mexico, two photos, and proof of where I would reside in France. This is key. I was very fortunate. A friend who is a resident and homeowner in France generously offered me to live with her and provided a letter of invitation, proof of her residency, property tax and utility bill.

The French Consulate in Los Angeles

I made a Consulate appointment online for February 24th at 10am, booked a flight to Burbank for the 23rd – a smaller airport and convenient for visiting my sister and her family for two nights – and a rental car from the airport. I had originals and two neatly-organized copies of all the paperwork, including a prepaid Fedex Airbill for my passport to be returned, hopefully with the French visa inside, and felt confident I had a good chance of receiving the coveted permission.

It is 12 miles from my sister’s home to the Consulate office on Santa Monica Blvd. I left at 7:30 to allow plenty of time and arrived just before 10:00, stressed and anxious from 2-1/2 hours in LA traffic; returning took 30 minutes. I thought I’d find an office where you go in, sit down, wait, and meet with an officer. Nope. The entrance is around back of an office building (there is expensive underground parking) and you ring a buzzer, give your name and stand outside in an uncovered concrete area until you are called.

My first encounter was with the security officer and paper checker, a man whom other bloggers had commented was rude and intimidating. I found him polite and charming as he logged my passport and proof of residency (NM driver’s license) and directed me to sit in the next room – a windowless space with plastic chairs lining opposite walls with two teller’s windows each manned by young a French woman fluent in English. Four other people, holding passports from China, Mexico, Greece, and the U.S., were ahead of me. Finally I was called and stood at the glass partition.

“Do you have your application?” asked the girl curtly. “Yes, I have the whole packet here,” I replied chirpily. “Give me just what I ask for!” she snapped. I handed her the application form. One by one she requested various papers, not in the order specified by the website. She visually scanned the contract I presented from my online employer. “It says it can be ‘terminated by either party with 60 days notice,'” she stated. “That’s standard in any contract,” I explained. “Not good,” she said, but I’m sure it was later factored in to their decision. My bank statement also was not clear enough for her that it was a cash account and not an investment account. “You’ll need a letter from the bank. You can scan and email it to us.” My French friend’s property tax receipt lacked a page and I needed to obtain and email that too. I paid the $110 processing fee, she kept everything including my passport, and I left feeling unnerved and uncertain.

Back at my sister’s, I scrambled to get an official letter from my bank and contact my friend (8 hours ahead in France) who graciously drove the hour to her tax office to get the missing page, take a camera shot of it and email it to me. I forwarded it all to the consulate. Having fulfilled the requested paperwork, I waited.

The Fedex Trauma

Nearly two weeks later, on a Wednesday, I received an email with the tracking number for my Fedex overnight package which had left the consulate office. I tracked it to Fedex in LA, and then an ice storm in Memphis prevented further transport. I called Fedex. They’d said they’d try to deliver it Saturday. Monday afternoon, still no package. Tuesday afternoon I received a call from Fedex that it had been delivered. But where?  It wasn’t at my house, where I’d received dozens of Fedex deliveries in the past!

Panicked, my mind running amuck that my passport could be stolen, I called again, begging them to contact the driver directly. Finally, Wednesday afternoon I was patched through to the driver who described where he had left it – at a house on the next street with the same address number. I ran there, rang the bell, breathlessly explaiing my plight to the owner, who happened to be a Frenchman, and seemed amused by my panic. “Yes, we received it yesterday and thought we’d give it back to the Fedex driver this afternoon as we’re expecting a pick up.” Of course he had no idea my passport was enclosed nor the anxiety I’d suffered. I tore open the envelope and there inside was pasted my French one-year visa, beginning March 31, 2015, the day of my changed return flight to London and on to Toulouse. “YES!” I cried at the relief of it. Again, I felt lucky. Lesson: Always check “signature required” for an important delivery.

French visa, how to stay in EU

The French Long-Stay Visa

It is valid for a year, and renewable for another year by request at the local OFII (Immigration) office, so I can continue as a temporary resident of France year-by-year, without needing to return to the U.S. As required, shortly after my arrival in France, I registered my presence on the required forms (provided by the Consulate along with my passport). Having learned my Fedex lesson, I posted them with a return receipt request and received that.

A few weeks later the post delivered a standard letter for an appointment on May 27 at 1:30 p.m. at the OFII for a medical exam. From my friend’s place in The Gers Department of the Midi-Pyrenees, the local office is in Toulouse, a 2 hour’s drive to the east. The exam consisted of a chest X-ray to ensure I do not have TB, a few questions about my general health, and a brief meeting with an immigration officer to receive a stamp on my visa and more paperwork that I can submit for next year’s visa. Although most everyone at the OFII spoke enough English, the immigration woman did not and, while I could have muddled through with no French, it was helpful to have a bilingual friend accompany me.

As a temporary resident of France, I am not supposed to spend more than 3 months every year in other parts of the EU, although one wonders how anyone would know with the EU’s open borders. I can also go anywhere in the world and return to France anytime, as long as my visa is still valid.

It is a long and stressful road to receive official permission to reside in France or anywhere in the EU. You have to really want to live in Europe! I am grateful to my friend whose invitation made it possible for me to continue my search for a place to call home in Europe. Who knows, maybe I’ll marry a Spaniard after all… or an Italian, or a Frenchman… but I won’t need to for a visa. We’ll see, but least I’m here, living this dream, and possibilities abound.

If you have a story about getting – or trying to get – a visa to reside in the EU, I’d love to hear from you! Please share it in the comments section or contact me for a possible guest blog.

 

10 Tips for Independent Travel in Europe

if you come to a fork in the trail, take it 10 Tips for Traveling in Europe

If travel is on your  mind, may these tips for saving, safety and deeper experiences encourage you to get going! They are based on my experiences of 5 months of solo travel in Europe last summer – Spain, France and the UK. Although without a human companion, I had the company of my 30-year-old “mascot,” IggyMo, a classic Gund monkey who saved me from “selfies” and helped make many friends along the way. He chronicles his own adventures with sweet innocence of which I am happy to be reminded.

The linked pages are full of specific tips and details which apply to most travel – not just western Europe. Please share with friends via social media and elsewise.

Your feedback, questions and stories are welcome in the comments section. 

1. Stay where you feel good
When it comes to discomfort, no matter the reason – claustrophobic, dirty, bad bed, noisy, negative energy, in a “dodgy” neighborhood – anytime you feel uncomfortable, unwelcome or ill at ease, find a better situation.

On the other hand, sometimes first impressions – positive or negative – are not accurate. When I arrive tired or feel vulnerable, small things like a light not working or the hot and cold faucets being reversed can send me over the edge of despair. Or, I’ve be so grateful to arrive at a destination that I overlooked the pervasive smell of blood and guts (no one mentioned the pig slaughtering plant next door) or the restaurant downstairs that turns into a rave club after midnight.

Point is, after a good look around, you decide the place isn’t for you, plot the quickest exit strategy and find a situation to relocate. For ideas on inexpensive and alternative stays, click here.

2. Know the laws and customs
Paris traffic signThe most important law you need to know if you plan to spend more than 3 months in the European Union – as a non-EU passport holder – is the Schengen Agreement http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schengen Agreement. Upon arrival in the EU you get a 3-month tourist visa, good for all the 26 EU countries, and then must leave the EU for 3 months. If you overstay, it can mean big trouble. There are no known legal ways to extend your tourist without apply from within your country of origin or residence. Stay tuned (subscribe now) for an upcoming blog I’ll post about how I received a one-year “long-stay visa” from the French Consulate.

As for local customs, your time in any foreign country will be a lot more fun if you make an effort to learn about greetings and goodbyes, handshakes, kisses, pre-meal salutations, and at least a few words and phrases. Be aware of standard hours and days of shop and office closures, as they vary widely country-to-country and even area-to-area within a country. Local and national holidays not only affect business closings but transportation and movements of whole populations (like July and August when every popular destination is packed). To read about my adventure driving around France, click here.

3. Try to appreciate everything – It’s a journey. You chose to embark on it. There will be challenges, and how you handle them will teach you a lot about your self… and may even lead to grand adventures you wouldn’t have had otherwise.

4. Travel light – I know, everyone says this and it’s true. travel lightIf you’re going on vacation, you should be able to travel with one carry-on (rolling bag or backpack) and a second small carry-on for computer/ipad, camera and daily walk-around things.

Read this important article on “How and Why To Travel Light”: click here. I also wrote “Two weeks, one carry-on” in 2008. The principles are the same but some details need updating, like you can now bring your smartphone and buy a local Sim card for pay-as-you-go calls; and with the proliferation of wifi zones it’s easy to keep in touch worldwide for free via Skype, FaceTime, Google chat, ad nauseum.

5. Save money on accommodations – The biggest single expense (at home and especially while traveling) is accommodation. To learn about money-saving possibilities, click here.

6. Save money on food – Besides saving money, there’s the pleasure of the hunt, local interactions and learning about the culture through the food itself. Click here to read about great ways to save money, eat well and have more authentic dining experiences.
Basque food feast

7. Save on Transportation: Know your budget, plan, and be very flexible – Do your research so you have a good sense of what your expenses will likely be, and add more for contingencies. For many more tips on getting to, from and around, click here.

make friends with locals8. Meet Locals – Try to establish in advance at least one contact in each place you’ll be staying – someone who will meet with you – even for just a cup of coffee or glass of wine – if not host you for a night or more. Insider information will save you time, money, and likely introduce you to places, events and people you’d not know otherwise. Best of all – especially if you’re traveling alone – you won’t feel so alone. Attitude is Everything – along with integrity, respect, self-love. A pleasant attitude and smile will go much further than language skills. Want deas and resources for finding and cultivating these friendly local connections? Click here.

9. Get Travel / Medical Insurance – Why? Peace of mind. And some countries, like the UK, may require proof of it to enter. Besides the obvious negative possibilities of accident, medical emergency, dismemberment, death or lost baggage, I chose the upgraded policy from World Nomads because it offered $30,000 comprehensive and collision coverage on any rental car. When I rented a Europcar for 8 days in France, I waived the $15 a day car rental insurance, saving more than the equivalent of a month’s policy with WorldNomads. Check into it and get a free quote here. ferry La Havre to Portsmith

10. Be Fearless – Before you leave home, create a support network. With phones, text, email, social networks and free online communications, it’s easy to stay in touch. Also, be sure to leave copies of all your important information, including contacts and passwords with a trusted person. I’ve compiled a list of ways to feel and be safer on the road and at home… Click here to read it.

Now, do you feel ready to for a trip to Europe? Be in touch if you – or a friend – is headed this way!

All photos at InhabitYourDreams.com © 2014 Aysha Griffin